Week 3: The Middle Country

We were caught in a whirlwind journey the moment we waited in Saigon with the countless other tourists ready to embark our coach to explore the mysterious 'Middle' we knew little about. We explored caves, sculpture museums (where they carved stone right in front of you!!!), traditional confectionery factories and large Buddhist temples perched on the high hills and caressed by the cool air and clouds above. To be honest breakfasts were as western as you could get for the whole day and even that was rather feeble in comparison to home! But what's an adventure in another country if you confine yourself to the eggs on toast when you can have the congee, Pho, or sticky rice for a power brekkie? Energy was what we needed as we encountered many stairways and inclines to get to the checkpoints of our tour!

Lunch and dinner was traditionally rice with many accompaniments! Although it was a little too familiar by day 2 this was part of the Vietnam experience so we had to power on!

The more considered tourist-y spots were of course the mains: Hue, Da Nang and Hoi Nai which were always teeming with foreigners. My highlight was The Hue markets were we walked the night markets and observed the famous bridges from afar. For the sweet tooth like me, Che dessert in Hue was definitely the best. Take a regular store back at home with little bowls for you to choose your toppings and times that by 10. That is everything was in a large pot - sweet potato, taro, countless beans and jelly assortments. Ice and coconut milk were ready at the back to complete your customized creation and it was dirt cheap! More to feel less guilty about and something to sip while you explore all the knick knacks of the markets!

A typical Hoi Nai night - this photo is harder to take than it
looks with the intense bridge traffic so keep trying!!

Hoi Nai at night was kind of like that scene from Rapunzel (which I assume all of you have watched because it's just like Frozen right?) By night the restaurants were lit up with laughter and conversation, streets and stores framed the walkway with lanterns and flames that throbbed behind their colorful shades. It definitely felt like the village out of Rapunzel complete with boats releasing lanterns into the water. The lake was pitch black so the lanterns appeared to float lazily in a void! Buses taking tourists out were a mess so be prepared to wait! Don't get too hopeful because that may not be YOUR tour bus which caught me a few times! Three point turns and U-turns level 1000 seen here :)

When we were 'in between' places we visited a Buddhist temple which we could see all the way up the hill as we approached. The weather was cool but the place felt chillier. Maybe because the large (and  I mean large) courtyard was paved in a grayish white appeared smaller but for all the potted bonsai's and pond displays that stood orderly like soldiers awaiting command. A monstrous paved staircase led to a lovely lookout (so the height challenged can truly see how high up they are). It was like the home or play thing of a giant out of Jack and the Beanstalk. Located very high above the ground level - check. Eerily silent (but in a peaceful way) - check. Large temple/abode looming in the background of every tourist photo - check. You couldn't help but feel the air here was cleaner and that you stepped lighter as you explored the vast courtyards. 

Overall you could feel the difference in the landscape - the countryside flashed past in ochre, a blur of grinding stone fashioned into intertwined figures worshiping the skies and the stillness and unobserved murmuring of everyday life that surprised those like us familiar with the bustle of Hanoi and Saigon.

A trip to Bana Hills via the longest cable car trip - 5 km
Tip: buy popcorn at the bottom to have on board while waiting :)